With increasing aesthetic awareness, consumers have become more and more interested in dressing neatly. In the past, people mainly chose to buy Ready-to-wear outfits, and tailored outfits were only for the upper class. Nowadays, tailoring a beautiful and quality men’s suit (or what many people still call a suit) has become easier for the majority of men.
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THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN READY-MADE SUITS AND MADE TO MADE SUITS
For men’s vest products, the market has two groups of men’s ready-to-wear (RTW) vests and tailored men’s vests (made-to-measure and bespoke). Regardless of the concept, both have their own customer files with their own advantages and disadvantages.
COMPARE THE ADVANTAGES - DISADVANTAGES OF THE TWO PRODUCT LINE
READY-TO-WEAR VEST
Advantage:
RTW is the most popular segment globally because of the variety of designs and sizes as well as taking less time than tailoring. Furthermore, cost is also a strong point of RTW men’s suits compared to tailored suits. Normally, a beautiful suit in this segment costs only ⅓ or ¼ of a tailored suit.
Disadvantages:
In addition to the above advantages, RTW vest products also possess many disadvantages, which can even directly affect your pocket in the long run.
Fabric
Because of the low price, RTW men’s suits will be made of low quality fabrics. Sometimes some places also use fabric that has not been tested or fabric without labels. Using a suit withthese poor quality fabrics for a period of time will cause your ready-to-wear vest to begin to appear prone to pilling and fading quickly.
Jacket Structure
In RTW suits, the shirt structure will use a mex layer (fusible interlining) instead of having a canvas structure like in tailored vests. This mex structure, after a period of dry cleaning, will cause air bubbles to appear on your vest. These things will make the suit you are wearing look cheap and of poor quality, leading to you having to spend money to buy a new suit.
Tailored suits help flatter your figure and conceal flaws
MADE TO MEASURE VEST
In contrast to RTW suits, tailored suits will cost more, and will depend on the fabric you choose as well as the structure of the shirt.
Advantage:
Fabric:
When going to a tailor, you will be able to choose from many different fabrics, many different colors, with many segments from different brands from Lord & Taylor, Nobility to Dormeuil or Scabal. In addition, you will also receive careful advice from style experts and tailors about the pros and cons of each type of fabric on your body shape and skin tone. Thus, you will be proactive in choosing the most suitable fabric for yourself.
Jacket Structure:
Different from the mex layer structure of ready-made vests, tailored men’s suits will use a separate structure called canvas structure. This is a structural layer made from horse mane or camel hair, and is 100% hand-sewn by the tailor, helping to maintain the shape of the shirt as well as enhance the wearer’s figure. Therefore, the quality of tailored suits will be much better than RTW suits.
A premium bespoke double breasted suit made by The Sages
Disadvantages:
However, tailored vests also have disadvantages in contrast to ready-made vests.
Completion time
It will take much longer to complete a suit than when you go to buy a RTW men’s suit. The canvas layer in the body of the shirt alone takes about 3-4 days to complete. In addition, you also have to go through more than 4 fitting sessions so that the technician can adjust it to fit your body shape. Normally, to have a beautiful and well-fitting bespoke men’s suit on hand will take about 3-4 weeks, or even 1-2 months if a lot of editing is required.
Fabric:
When it comes to tailoring a suit, you have the right to choose the fabric according to your budget, but time can also affect your fabric choice. This case is usually when you want quick tailoring in 1-2 days. Many people have urgent schedules, or tourists coming to Vietnam for short trips, so they choose quick tailoring service (6 – 24 – 48 hours). When doing quick tailoring, you will usually only be able to choose fabrics that are available in the tailor’s warehouse.
On the contrary, if you choose high-quality imported fabric, you may have to wait 3 working days or more just for the tailor to receive the fabric. So you need to pay attention to the tailoring time to be able to get a quality and suitable bespoke suit.
SUIT MADE PROCESS
The traditional tailored suit industry has two main tailoring segments: Made-to-measure (MTM) suit tailoring – patterned tailoring and traditional bespoke suit tailoring – unique tailoring. With the emergence of 4.0 technology, there is now a new generation of unique bespoke 4.0 suit tailoring experience. Let’s find out what the process of each segment is like.
MADE TO MEASURE SEWING PROCESS:
With Made-to-measure tailoring, the first step is for the tailor to take your body measurements. Then, the worker will base on your body parameters to choose the closest frame and cut the fabric up or down according to the available formula. With this process and sewing method, you will own a suit that fits your body after about 2 to 3 fitting sessions. Compared to ready-made RTW men’s suits, MTM men’s suits will flatter your figure and fit much better.
The tailor cuts the Made to Measure suit based on the template
TRADITIONAL UNIQUE BESPOKE SEWING PROCESS:
Traditional bespoke tailoring has a process quite similar to the made-to-measure tailoring process. After the tailor takes careful measurements and carefully examines the pros and cons of your body, you will be free to choose details on the men’s suit to increase personalization. With the traditional bespoke tailoring process, you will go through at least 4-5 tries for the tailor to correct any areas that are not yet fit and perfect on your men’s suit. Although it is quite time-consuming, one thing is certain when you hold a bespoke men’s suit in your hand, it will be a “unique” suit, with a high “uniqueness” and only for you.
NEW GENERATION UNIQUE BESPOKE SUIT 4.0 MEASUREMENT PROCESS
A new segment appears, but it is the most modern and intuitive segment, which is the new generation 4.0 bespoke suit tailoring. Currently in Vietnam, there is only one suit tailor applying this process, The Sages Modern Bespoke. The Sages is a bespoke suit tailor in Ho Chi Minh City – applying new generation 4.0 technology, combined with the essence of 30 years of tailoring tradition., with the goal of making the most suitable and perfect suits for customers, as well as providing the most suitable suit solutions for modern businessmen. The Sages’ new generation bespoke suit 4.0 tailoring process includes 7 steps:
UNDERSTAND THE NEED
First, when you come to The Sages, the consultants will ask you a few questions, for example, “What event do you want to have a tailored suit for?” or “where will you wear it?” or even “what is your intended budget?”. These questions will help The Sages experts understand your needs, conditions and suit-wearing environment, thereby being able to advise you more thoroughly and accurately in the future.
FABRIC SELECTION AND BODY CONSULTATION
After understanding your needs, you will be given fabric selection and body shape consultation. The Sages owns a diverse range of more than 10,000 fabric samples, from many countries around the world, as well as leading fabric brands. This gives you many more options to choose from without being constrained by any type of fabric.
At the same time, while choosing fabric, you will be advised by our experts about your body shape, face shape and the type of fabric that is suitable for you. For example, if you have a rather thin body shape and a long face, The Sages will suggest fabrics with horizontal stripes or plain fabrics without patterns to help create the visual illusion of making you look wider. bigger and thicker.
TAKE 3D MEASUREMENTS AND TRY FABRIC EFFECTS
After completing the fabric selection process, you will have your body 3D scanned to obtain more than 180 measurements. Before taking 3D measurements, The Sages specialist will guide and take sample measurements so you can understand the 3D scanning process. This seems simple but is very important, because such detailed instructions will help customers avoid making mistakes during the scanning process that lead to wrong parameters.
After completing the process of taking 3D measurements, you can also try on the shirt to determine the range of movement as well as check the fabric effect when worn on your body. These combined operations are carefully done by The Sages to shorten the number of fitting times for customers, helping to save more time but be more effective.
SELECT PERSONAL DETAILS ON 3D MODEL
After 3D scanning, you will be able to choose the details and personalize your men’s suit right on the intuitive 3D model. With bespoke suits, details are important factors and your personal highlight, so The Sages also pay great attention to this factor.
Design bespoke suits intuitively with 3D applications
In addition to choosing details according to personal preferences, you will also be advised by The Sages experts on some details suitable for your body shape and environment. For example, if you are a lawyer, or work in an environment that requires a lot of walking or standing, then the slit in the middle of the back of a suit jacket is a suitable choice for you.
VIRTUAL FITTING
After completing the detailed selection of your bespoke suit, it is time for you to rest assured that everything will be left to The Sages.
Before starting to produce a tailored suit for you, The Sages will apply 4.0 technology to conduct the Virtual fitting step (digital fitting) on your 3D scan. In this step, we will create your suit using a 3D model and apply it to the 3D scan you created in step 3, with your parameters and body shape. Then, we will let your 3D avatar perform some daily activities at work (eg shaking hands, crossing arms, etc.) to see if the suit fits your body. We will then email you this Virtual fitting model so you can see it for yourself. We carry out this step to gain some understanding of the fit of the suit after it is worn on your body.
Digital fitting for a business client at The Sages
FIRST FITTING
After about a week, you will return to The Sages for your first fitting. At this first fitting session, you will be wearing a basted fitting suit (unfinished fitting suit). We will try it directly to see if the tailored suit fits your body and the fabric effects when worn on the body. Usually, with the help of 4.0 technology, your bespoke men’s suit almost fits perfectly and only has to be edited with a few small details.
FINAL FITTING AND RECEIVING THE PRODUCT
After the first fitting session, about 1-2 weeks later, you will be invited back to The Sages for a final fitting session to see the final product. After everything is completed, The Sages will package and deliver the “unique” tailored suit to you.
Business customers use Blazers made by The Sages
Overall, the modern bespoke suit tailoring segment 4.0 is a desirable innovation in the tailoring industry. After learning through the process, you can see that in this segment, the time to tailor a beautiful men’s suit is faster than in the other two segments. you’ll also get a more modern and more intuitive experience with Tailored suit price is still optimized like when tailoring a traditional bespoke suit.
Through this article, you certainly have a clear understanding of the modern bespoke suit tailoring process at The Sages. If you have any questions or need further advice, please contact hotline +84 886 219 608 or chat with the Facebook fanpage for help.
