There is a truth that those who opt for tailoring bespoke suits often focus solely on colors and patterns. However, the reality is that fabric weight is one of the crucial factors that determine whether a suit is suitable for you or not. In this blog, The Sages Bespoke explores what constitutes the appropriate fabric weight for your bespoke suit needs.
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WHY DOES SUIT FABRIC WEIGHT MATTER?
When searching for the perfect bespoke suit, it’s not just about how it feels and looks good on you. While these factors may play a role, they don’t necessarily guarantee the quality or suitability of the garment for your specific needs. One important aspect to consider is the weight of the fabric. Understanding the fabric weight helps you make an informed decision and find a suit that meets your requirements. If you’re attending a summer wedding, opting for a lightweight suit jacket will keep you comfortable in the heat. On the other hand, if warmth is a priority, heavier fabrics are the ideal choice. By paying attention to the fabric weight, you can ensure that your bespoke suit aligns perfectly with your preferences and the occasion.
BREATHABILITY
Breathability is an essential factor when it comes to choosing the right suit fabric. Lighter fabrics offer better breathability, making them ideal for summer wear. Fabrics such as linen and cotton, commonly found in tropical climates, are known for their lightweight and breathable qualities. For a versatile option suitable for all seasons or as a first bespoke suit, consider a wool fabric in the 210-230 GSM range. This weight range ensures comfort during the summer months while allowing for layering with a cardigan in the winter. As the GSM (grams per square meter) increases, the fabric becomes thicker, providing excellent insulation for winter wear. If warmth is a priority, opting for higher GSM fabrics is recommended.
FIT
The fit of your suit is influenced by the weight of the fabric. Heavier fabrics are favored by tailors due to their ability to hold their shape and drape elegantly. When worn, they create a clean and fitted appearance. On the other hand, lighter fabrics tend to sway more in the wind, wrinkle easily, and are prone to snagging on shoulders, belts, or shirt sleeves, resulting in a disheveled look. Additionally, heavier fabrics are often thicker, which can give the illusion of a heavier physique. When tailoring a bespoke suit, consider the weight of the fabric to achieve the desired fit and refined appearance.
FABRIC WEIGHT
The weight of the fabric plays a crucial role in determining the most suitable season or temperature for a bespoke suit. It is typically measured in grams or ounces per yard (91 cm) of fabric. While grams offer a more detailed measurement, some traditional English mills still use ounces. The majority of fine suiting fabrics fall within the range of 175g to 320g. However, it’s important to note that fabric weight is influenced by factors such as weave density, composition, and finishing, meaning that a fine high-super fabric doesn’t necessarily translate to a lighter weight.
English mills historically produced heavier fabrics to combat colder weather when heating systems were limited. On the other hand, Italian fabrics tend to be lighter, catering to milder winters and hot summers. An influential style emerged in Naples during the 1930s, characterized by bold and lightweight fabrics that continue to be popular.
To choose the right fabric for your needs, consider the following weight categories: super lightweight (175g-225g) suitable for tropical conditions, lightweight (225g-250g) ideal for the tropics and summer, mid-weight (250g-285g) suitable for year-round wear, and heavy-weight (285g and above) recommended for fall and winter.
By understanding fabric weight and its seasonal suitability, you can make an informed decision when selecting a suit that aligns with your climate and preferences.
In this article, you have gained valuable insights into the concept of fabric weight and how to choose the ideal weight for your bespoke suit. If you have any inquiries or wish to delve deeper into the topic, feel free to reach out to us at our hotline +84 886 219 608 or engage with us on our Facebook fan page. We are here to assist you in your journey towards the perfect suit jacket through our bespoke tailoring services.
